Ferry across The River Gambia to Barra

We were at the VSO Office for 8.30am as we were being taken up country to the Roots site of Juffureh. We set off for Banjul ferry terminal and had a short wait of thirty minutes amongst the crowds of hustlers trying to sell us necklaces, clothes and food, they just wouldn’t give up. We watched the ferry docking and then cars, lorries and passengers on foot jostling off all loaded up with produce of all kinds. We got onto the ferry and took the stairway upstairs where we found some seats, and watched the hustle and bustle before departing the ferry terminal. The crossing across The River Gambia was short and steady taking about forty minutes, usually during November to January you can see dolphins jumping in front of the ferries, we only saw some jellyfish. Arrived at Barra terminal and had to walk off through a very wet road to our vehicle pick up point crossing over pools by way of standing on tyres and wooden planks.

Ferry dockin in at Banjul

Barra Ferry Terminal

Fort Bullen

We had a quick ride to Fort Bullen which was a British Fort built in the nineteenth century and used to help eradicate slavery in West Africa. Long after Britain stopped the slave trade the French and Portuguese still carried on their trading of slaves, also Fort Bullen was used during world war 11 when Senegal sided with France. A very run down building unfortunately we were unable to gain access to the inside of the Fort, so we just walked around the outside taking pictures. We had a very short walk on the nearby beach as we suddenly saw some cow horns, then skulls and some blood which had been picked over by the vultures looked like an abattoir. Sat under a baobab tree and had a snack whilst watching goats and pigs snuffling for food.

Visit to the Alkalo

After a short visit as not much to see at the Fort we headed off on route to Sittanunka Camp where we would be staying tonight. The tarmac road ended and we were jostled about on a mud track with water filled pot holes for the next hour and half. We were suddenly within a landscape of lush vegetation, palm and baobab trees, fresh water creeks and the occasional African village, plenty of wildlife egrets and an odd monkey walking along the roadside. As we passed homes small children ran out to greet us shouting ‘Hello’ ‘Hello’ or ‘Toubab’ ‘Toubab’ and ran alongside the vehicles all with smiling happy faces.

We first had to visit the district village chief or ‘alkalo’ to pay our respects, we were asked into his compound and were surrounded by children, we did manage to get some names from them before entering the chiefs house where he gave us a long talk about what his role is within the region. This resulted in Nadia, Emily and Georgia all falling a sleep. When he had finished he asked if we had any questions so Tony asked him how many Hospitals and Schools he had within his district expecting a quick answer not so he went into a long discussion yet again. Finally when this was over on behalf of the group Paul had to give him a vote of thanks as is the custom, and we then set off to leave. It was nearly 3.30pm and we still hadn’t eaten very hungry we gave the children a quick snack of biscuits and an apple.

Village Life

Sittanunka Camp

We finally got to Sittanunka Camp it was a lovely camp of thatched houses very close to the rivers edge very picturesque. We ate at around 4.00pm the food was worth waiting for, lamb domada, chicken yassa, prawns, chips, rice and salad followed by bananas and mangoes very good. Bradley and Abigail went off to explore the beach and befriended a couple of the owner’s children, and spent the afternoon playing with them.

View from the Jetty

Jetty

Kaba's Children

Kafo Dancers

On the evening after a late dinner watching the sunset and having put the children to bed we were entertained by some Kafo Dancers. A Kafo is a group of women who are either barron or have had children who have died at a young age, they come together to pray and dance. We all enjoyed the musical instruments, singing, clapping, whistle blowing and dancing and it was your turn to dance when they threw a piece of cloth at you. Hence we all ended up joining in, very fast footwork and lots of arm waving whilst bending at the waist, got into the rhythm and I have never been congratulated on my dancing before until now.