Smile Leaving Party

This evening we have been invited to the leaving party of the group called smile. They are a Christian organisation from the UK who every year send out a group to work in local schools for five months. Paul became friendly with a couple of the boys through his Sunday rugby games. From this he also got them involved playing with the Gambian rugby team which he coaches on a Tuesday and Saturday. They live in a compound behind the war cemetery so not far to walk for us. When we arrived all of the Gambian rugby team were there, after introductions we were presented with a plate of chicken yassa. After eating Abigail made her self at home with some of the girls, whilst Bradley was busy playing with one of the lads from the team throwing a rugby ball about. We ended up staying for a couple of hours before leaving to put Abigail and Bradley to bed.

Gambian Rugby Team

Chris

Tim

A Very Long Day

This morning we were up at 5 o’clock as we were going on our trek into Senegal to the Nickola Koba National Park. Our taxi arrived and we set off to Barra ferry dropping John off on route in Banjul. We bought our ferry tickets and then met up with Marielle and her sister Heleen who would be accompanying us on the trip. Francis arrived with our tour guide who just happened to be the same guy who took us to Fatala game reserve. Once across the ferry Francis took us to our land rover jeep and we were introduced to our driver. We climbed in and headed straight to the petrol station to fill up the tank the deal was we brought it back full. As the tank was filling Francis and the guys from the station were looking underneath Paul got out and quickly asked us all to get out and move away as petrol was spilling onto the floor. They finally found a small hole at the top of the tank where the petrol had overflowed. My thoughts were not again however once the tank had got below the hole it was okay so we were finally on our way to Farafeni where we were to pick up one of the new volunteers Kanti. On route Paul received a call from Kanti to say she had still not got across the river so we decided to drive to the ferry at Bambatenda putting an extra forty minutes onto our time. Back in Farafeni Paul then took Kanti to get some CFA as she had not yet purchased any Senegalese currency. Marielle, Heleen and the guides went looking for some breakfast. Myself and the children watched the luggage and as usual became the centre of attention with the Gambian children and locals trying to sell us boiled eggs, cashew nuts, peanuts or asking for pens or minty’s from us.

Heleen, Marielle's sister

Bambetenda Ferry Port

Back on route we had wanted to head straight to the Senegalese border after Farafeni however Francis was unsure on what state the road would be in so suggested we stay in Gambia until reaching Basse and cross at the border there. This meant crossing back to the south side at Bansang. The road up to now had been very good but we new it wouldn’t last forever as we left the tarmac behind replacing it for dusty red sand. This felt more like the Africa you see on TV as we passed little African thatched hut villages. We reached the ferry at Bansang at around 1 o’clock in the afternoon. The ferry was only big enough for two vehicles and was pulled across by hand to the other side. Once on the other side we picked up the south road which was very bad, although tarmac we had to manoeuvre on and off road to miss the potholes.

Bansang Ferry Crossing

We reached Basse at around 3 o’clock it was much larger than I thought with plenty of stalls and shops, asking directions we drove along a dirt track to the border post where passports were stamped. We then had to get them stamped again once at the Senegalese border post which was in the town of Badiara. We crossed a tributary of the river Gambia again and asked a police officer for the distance and directions to Tambacounda which is the third largest city within Senegal. After explaining where we were going he told us to take a shorter route to the village of Missira. We decided to go for it as time was against us it was already past 5 o’clock and the game reserve gates close at 6.30pm. We took the route shown and headed down a dirt track through small villages. After thrity minutes we stopped to ask directions and were told we had missed our turning so we had to turn back. Eventually asking directions again we were put on the right track. With hopes dashed of reaching the park before closing we decided to head for another camp at Missira. As night time was drawing in we were driving down a one vehicle track in the middle of no where over very rough ground and having to occasionally duck to avoid getting hit by branches. By 7.30pm as we passed through a couple of villages I was starting to get a little concerned, if anything happens to the vehicle now we would be stuck. All I was thinking was It’s a good job Gambia and Senegal are both safe countries as the thought of bandits did cross my mind. By now the children had managed to fall a sleep. As we entered the outskirts of Missira village up ahead we could see lights which belonged to a camp. We were so pleased to be at the camp, we asked if they had any rooms and were given the answer we did not want to hear No. We had no option but to continue on to the next camp. Finally finding the main tarmac road and heading towards the game reserve we passed a sign for a camp 35 kilometres off track, we took the decision to stay on the main road and head for Dar Salam camp at the reserve gates. This turned out to be the right decision as they had rooms available. It was now 10 o’clock in the evening. We quickly settled the children down then had a quick lager before retiring ourselves after a very tiring sixteen hours on the road.

Bintang Bolon

The children have broken up for half term all be it they only get three days off returning back to school on Tuesday also it is independence day so Paul is also off college, he is still not sure whether he will need to go in tomorrow.. We decided to take a trip out for the day the plan was to drive along the south bank to see how far we could go before the road got too bad for the car. We were also dropping Rachael off at Brikama college so she could meet up with Amy. Rachael is one of the new volunteers who will be working at the college. We arrived at the college in good time Amy was already there she had decided to go into work today so as to tidy the office. We left them as Amy decided to give Rachael a tour of the college. We were soon back on the road and passing the village of Pirang which is where we recently had a walk through the forest. The road was quite good tarmac through the next two villages then we were diverted off the road and on to a track which ran parallel to it. The road was still in the process of being built and there were large boulders dotted along sections to stop vehicles using it however it looked in better condition than the one we were travelling on. The track which we were taken along was a mix of tarmac and sand which was full of ridges however the gellehs and trucks just speed along no problem throwing up red dust as they went. We passed a number of villages along the way with locals sat outside there houses or out in the fields working, and the usual variety of animals, donkeys, goats, cows and sheep. The road which we were travelling on was very wide and flat so you got a good view of the horizon up a head and was bordered by baobab and palm trees. Unfortunately we didn’t see any wildlife it was probably too late in the morning. We passed a couple of areas which looked as if in the wet season they would be flooded and possibly home to crocodiles.

As we entered the village of Somita we looked for any sign posts to Bintang Bolon unbelievably it was signposted so we came of the main road to travel along a sand track. The road was in very good condition and not too sandy so no fear of getting stuck. We passed through a village with children running out of their compounds and shouting toubab at us. They even had street lights which consisted of a light bulb in a icecream tub and make shift lamppost.

We arrived at a water front restaurant and lodge which was built on stilts across the mangroves and river. The restaurant had a jetty and gave an excellent view of the river which was bordered by mangroves and trees. The manager and a couple of women were busy fishing for crabs which they were catching in a circular hoop net which was baited with fish eyes and fins. They were throwing it over the jetty and leaving it a while before hoisting it back in to a catch of a couple of crabs which were tipped into a bucket with others. We relaxed in the sun enjoying the views with julbrew and pop in hand. Abigail wanted to use the toilet so Paul took her down one of the plank walkways. There was suddenly a bit of a commotion from the women behind me when I turned around a load of bats had flew in to the restaurant and attached themselves on the ceiling before flying back in to an adjacent tree. Apparently Abigail had disturbed them when going to the toilet. They also saw a couple of monkeys scurrying along the planks and into the mangrove trees.

We were asked by the manager if we wanted to eat however they only had shrimps on the menu so no good for Abigail and Bradley, I think you probably have to book in advance. Before leaving we took a look at the lodges, they were situated between the mangroves and overlooking the river with there own little jetty. Although basic they looked very clean well worth a nights stay. They also do boat trips on the Bintang Bolon river and only last week they said they had some dolphins in the estuary. We walked out towards the village jetty hoping to find somewhere to eat our picnic lunch. Immediately we were surrounded by about twenty children all wanting to talk to us. They continued to follow us down a track passing a huge mound of empty oyster shells which then came to a dead end so we had to backtrack. They then offered to show us the crocodile pool so we followed them through the village to the pool which was practically dried up and had no sign of any crocodiles. As we headed back to the car I was greeted warmly by an elderly lady who offered me some groundnuts. Back at the car and leaving the locals at the restaurant gates we made our way back down the sand track stopping on route to eat our picnic lunch before heading back home. As we were driving the car didn’t seem to be driving as it should there seemed no acelarator I had visions of us breaking down in the middle of no where. As we entered Brikama Paul took the decision to stop off at Amy’s to let the engine cool down hoping it would do the trick. Amy wasn’t at home so we called in on Anne and had a coffee and chat with her until Amy arrived back. We got back on the road to head home, still the car was playing up it looks like another job for Molah our mechanic.

This week has been a quiet week so far, Sunday was spent at home as we decided not to do our usual trip to the beach. We did get out the paddling pool for Abigail and Bradley to play in pulling it into the shade from the trees. I even managed to sit reading a book with my feet cooling off in the pool very relaxing.

On Wednesday Paul had set off to work his plan was to do some teacher observations on route. He had just got back on a Gelleh after completing one observation when he received a phone call from Ebrima to let him know to bring his car to the office as they were doing all VSO vehicle car taxes and would get his done at the same time. So he jumped of the Gelleh to get on another for his return trip home. Apparently here they have to test the vehicles they are taxing. Paul arrived at the office and he followed a couple of the VSO drivers to the station where this would take place. He was expecting the car to get the once over however a police officer checked over his documents then asked to see his breakdown triangle. He looked at this ignored the two VSO vehicles and passed all three cars through, what a joke of a test.

On Thursday Abigail went on her school trip, when she arrived home she was full of beans at least it had proved to be more interesting than Bradley’s school trip last week. Her day had consisted of a visit to Katchikali crocodile pool and museum and rounded off by a picnic on the beach.

What a Journey to Jinack Island

A BIG HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO KAYLEIGH!!

Today we are setting off for our stay on Jinack Island, we were up bright and early hoping to avoid the ferry crossing rush, we bought our ferry ticket just before 8.00am and were told we would have a twenty minute wait so we pulled up behind other queuing vehicles. As we waited some 4x4’’s were waved a head of us through the terminal gates and onto the ferry. By 9 o’clock Paul asked some of the terminal staff what the hold up was and he was told that they were cleaning the ferry so there would be a slight delay. Then a 4x4 cut in front of us in the queue Paul went to challenge the driver upon which he produced an official document stating unhindered passage to Senegal. The three vehicles in front of us were waved through the barriers and terminal gates along with a few lorries and gelleh’s, we were now at the front of the queue so we thought hey we will be on the next ferry. No such luck the time went by as other official cars were waved through. Midday came and went with us still waiting at the terminal gates Paul went to investigate again and he was told a ferry had broken down so only two were in use. I was getting very frustrated and thinking we should maybe turn back for home, we made the decision to sit it out. We witnessed more heated arguments as official vehicles continued to queue jump, we were told it is useful to know somebody at the port who can help you to get on the ferry quicker. Paul spoke to a guy who was the assistant manager he was very apologetic that we had waited so long and said he would get us onto the next ferry. He then waved through another couple of official cars one apparently was late for his flight from Dakar and the other was attending a funeral yeah right. Finally we were waved through the terminal gates to the dock side where again we had a thirty minute wait. We watched as the cargo was unloaded by the porters onto carts, woman balancing three to five litre tubs on their heads with babies tied to their backs, cows and goats and finally the vehicles. We were waved onto the ferry after a six hour wait and set off only to be stopped to re dock to pick up a guy with a briefcase, unbelievable. After alighting and stopping for water we set off on the Senegal road only to miss the turning for Jinack Island as it wasn’t signposted. A young guy showed us the road for Jinack Island I jumped out and Paul took the guy back to his friends. The road was very sandy however Paul and the children were loving it you would think we were in a rally car race with blind corners of undergrowth and the back end of the car skidding out. We suddenly hit a very sandy area and the car stuck with the wheels spinning however luck was on our side as in the distance a land rover came into view. Three guys jumped out and with the driver behind our car wheel he got us out of the sand by driving through the undergrowth, good job the car is an old banger. Then one of the guys Alpha offered to show us the way to the island which we accepted in case we needed another push out of the sand. With Paul again behind the wheel and Alf showing us the best tracks to take we rallied around the bends with the accelerator on and the front end of the car hitting sand bumps which was coming through the air vents. We suddenly came to the end of the track at a small lagoon, Paul parked up then tried to reverse for a better position, the car had died on us he couldn’t get any gears engaged, what a day. We decided to sort out the car tomorrow and Alf offered to call the guy with the land rover to meet us and take a look as he is a mechanic. Whilst I chatted to some local children who were collecting what looked like whelks from the lagoon Paul agreed a price for us to cross the Niji Balon lagoon to the island in one of the canoes which was an extortionate 100 dalasi each way.

At the other side we then had a thirty minute walk to the lodge which took us through a couple of villages, ankle deep through a dirty stagnant swamp and fields of Marijuana. Apparently it is grown here quite openly as the main crop and because the island has a history and folklore of spirits and taboos officials don’t visit. We arrived at the beachside lodge and collapsed into the chairs and asked for a couple of julbrew's and soft drinks for the kids and Alf. We arranged to meet tomorrow with Alf so we could sort out the car situation. We were shown to our idyllic reed walled lodge consisting of a double bed and two singles, no electricity and attached outside washing facilities which consisted of a bucket of water and drainage hole. The shared flushing toilets were situated in another area of the grounds however there was no water facilities so you had to use a bucket of water. After a quick bucket bath, change of clothes and walk around the grounds passing the chef who was of for a swim we went back to the restaurant to await our evening meal. Then Sarah one of the three guests who were staying at the resort appeared with first aid kit in hand, apparently the chef had stepped on a weaver fish and had spines in his foot very painful, you have to laugh or cry what else can happen today. With the spines out of his foot and pain killers taken our limping chef managed to serve us our dinner. As night time came the staff lit halogen lamps and situated them around the grounds which looked very nice. We even witnessed a partial eclipse of the moon through Bob’s telescope and he then aligned it to show Abigail and Bradley Jupiter with its four moons. Shortly after the children were tired so it was off to bed whilst we chatted to Bob, Sarah and John. We decided to wait for midnight to watch the fireworks which were to be lit at Senegambia and Banjul. The president had arranged a music festival in Banjul followed by a firework display. Just before midnight the fireworks were lit at Senegambia and at about ten past midnight the presidents fireworks were lit late as usual. Well that’s the end of another year and what a day to end it on with all the frustrations and corruption at the ferry terminal.

Christmas Eve

This week has been a busy week for us preparing for Christmas and managing to fit in some sight seeing of the local area. On Monday we visited Serrekunda market with the intention to buy presents for Paul and he to buy for me we decided to set a sum of only £25. Arriving early we parked up and walked the rest of the way into the main market area and were soon looking amongst the stalls at shoes, shirts and flip flops. Two hours later we had both bought a number of items for each other so we made our way home.

On Tuesday we decided to visit Kabafita forest near to Brikama we set off nice and early however this was hindered when we were pulled over by the police as Paul had answered his phone whilst driving something he never does back in the UK but here the locals do it all the time, it seems one rule for the Gambians another for the Europeans. The officer wanted us to pay a fine of 2000 dalasi and had taken Paul’s papers I was adamant that if we were to pay a fine we were doing it at the police station where we would receive a receipt. There are too many corrupt people and until people decide to do this instead of giving lower figure backhanders there will always be some corruption within the country. An hour later we were no further forward and Paul was now out of the car talking to the police officer at this point I decided to phone the VSO Office, after speaking to Nuha he said he was on his way. I decided to walk the short distance to Wishes gift store to keep the children amused, two hours later Paul turned up saying he had been let off after a lot of grovelling by Nuha. Back on route we finally arrived at Brikama just before midday we ate a picnic lunch and then started walking into the forest area hoping to see some wildlife. After a two hour walk and not having seen anything we arrived at the craft market we quickly looked around as Bradley wanted to buy Abigail a key ring for Christmas we then walked back to the car and headed for home.

Wednesday morning was spent at La Parissienne for me and Bradley whilst Paul and Abigail took Tom and Lynne out to Kotu stream to do some bird spotting. We were all back home for lunch the bird spotting had been very successful Abigail was able to tick off in her book some different birds.

Thursday morning was spent food shopping and finishing off final preparations for tomorrow however it wasn’t the usual mad rush like back at home. On the evening we have been invited to Max’s for Christmas evening celebrations along with other volunteers. We decided to take the car and gave a lift to Tom, Lynne and Emma, and guess what we were stopped by the police yet again. Following the car in front we thought the officer had waved us on however we had been mistaken he was giving right of way to the left so he was complaining that we had nearly caused an accident. After a lot of talking, Paul biting his lip and Tom being told to shut up by a sixteen year old officer as he could be arrested for interfering we were finally back on our way. As we passed the Africell building they had displayed outside a huge Christmas tree and banners. We arrived at Max’s and were welcomed with the usual array of food for us all to enjoy. Not all the volunteers were there as some had gone home for Christmas or had family visiting so were spending the evening at some plush hotel. The food was delicious as usual and Max had managed to get his landlady to make beef domada which was so tender however the bowl could have fed an army, it was huge. Max had also invited some Gambian family’s including some young children one of which decided to play with Bradley’s bat and ball set to his annoyance he set about following her waiting for it to be put down. Angela managed to pull out Abigail’s loose tooth much to her pleasure as now the tooth fairy would also be visiting this evening. We left for home at 8.30pm the children quickly changed into their pj’s and we put a plate of snowman biscuits we had made and a carrot out for Santa and Rudolf then it was off to bed for two very tired children. Once a sleep we started to put the presents around the tree and fill the stockings before we finally made our way to bed.

National Beekeepers Association

The children are off school for a couple of days to celebrate Tobasky, we have decided to go with Paul to Brikama as he only has a two hour meeting to attend at 9.00am. The plan is for me and the children to look around the National Beekeepers Association and Craft Market then meet up with Paul after his meeting and take a look around the market.

Paul dropped us off just outside the Bee Centre, there was a small stall outside selling the three different types of honey found in the Gambia, Jungle Honey lightest in colour and the best tasting, Mahogany Honey and Palm Honey which have a stronger bitter taste. After making sure it was okay for us to take a look around we were first taken to an area where the bee’s come to drink, there was a small number of bee’s buzzing around us on asking if they sting the guide said yes but they are more aggressive at different times of the year. We were shown two different types of hives within a wooded area, a traditional wicker basket hive which is used more up country and a wooden hive which is manufactured at the farm. They are also in the process of producing a hive for viewing purposes so you can observe the bee’s at work making the honey.