Thursday 10 September 2009

Sittanunka Camp

We finally got to Sittanunka Camp it was a lovely camp of thatched houses very close to the rivers edge very picturesque. We ate at around 4.00pm the food was worth waiting for, lamb domada, chicken yassa, prawns, chips, rice and salad followed by bananas and mangoes very good. Bradley and Abigail went off to explore the beach and befriended a couple of the owner’s children, and spent the afternoon playing with them.
View from the Jetty

Jetty



Kaba's Children



Kafo Dancers

On the evening after a late dinner watching the sunset and having put the children to bed we were entertained by some Kafo Dancers. A Kafo is a group of women who are either barron or have had children who have died at a young age, they come together to pray and dance. We all enjoyed the musical instruments, singing, clapping, whistle blowing and dancing and it was your turn to dance when they threw a piece of cloth at you. Hence we all ended up joining in, very fast footwork and lots of arm waving whilst bending at the waist, got into the rhythm and I have never been congratulated on my dancing before until now.


Blog Updated

Last night was the worst thunderstorm yet as it was directly overhead I was very scared, however the children slept through it whilst we were checking the house for leaks. Called at the VSO Office to try to update my blog leaving Paul at home with the children. Once again could not get anything done as very slow and would not update, after an hour trying gave up. After dinner we decided to go to La Parrisiene which is a café where you can get wireless internet as long as you purchase a drink. After purchasing coffee and cakes for Abi and Bradley I managed to get onto the internet and after two hours had downloaded some of my blog, will look at calling again next week so as to try to get it up to date.

Candle Stick Holders

The plan this morning was to go to the beach to collect more shells however Bradley was still not very well. We decided to start our project hoping we wouldn’t run out of shells, of which we sorted into sizes. I coated two bottles with pollyfilla which we had found in our cupboards and then we all decorated them with the shells and left then to dry. Once dried we cut candles to fit and hey presto we had two lovely candle stick holders, will come in use when we have power cuts, Paul was very impressed with our days achievement, also the other volunteers have asked us to make them some so we will need more shells.

Cooking Domada

Bradley not too bad this morning however has suddenly come down with Abigail’s cold. We set of for the local book store called Timbooktoo, it is very well stocked offering a large range of Western and Gambian books which helps keep the children amused for an hour they also have wireless internet access. Arrived just before opening at 10.00pm so we sat on the steps waiting, the manager he finally arrived at 10.10pm; nothing seems to open on time here. Had a look at some of the books and then headed upstairs to buy a coffee and load up the internet unfortunately due to yesterdays storm all connections were down they told us to come back on the afternoon as they may be on, this is getting very frustrating.

On the afternoon we headed up towards the VSO Office as there was a workshop on recipe’s and cooking. Arrived just in time to help in the cooking of the Gambian dish known as Domada which is a peanut based dish. We were all involved chopping and pounding garlic and spices in a large pestle and mortar. Paul was in charge of cooking the beef on the gas stove with Maimuna who is the receptionist supervising. Unfortunately we had to leave early before trying the dish as Bradley was unwell again; taking a different route home we saw some Red-Billed Hornbills and Red Fire Finches which are tiny little Birds, very pretty.
Cooking Domada

James pounding Garlic and Spices


Just for Peter

Red-Billed Hornbill

Purple Glossy Starling



Red Fire Finches



Abigail woke up fine this morning a little bit of a cold, however Bradley had a case of The Gambian Gallops, I had to change him a couple of times so decided it was a good idea to spend the morning at home leaving Bradley to run around in his undies just in case. Set about washing some clothes, sweeping and mopping the floors, whilst the kids amused themselves with a jigsaw. We then had a quick trip to the bakers, supermarket and market stalls for a few bits, the cupboards are starting to look a little more stocked up on basic condiments etc, we had a lovely dinner of Spaghetti bolognaise. On arriving home Paul told us he had re looked at the Renault car and decided to go a head with the purchase and he has arranged for a mechanic to give it the once over hopefully nothing serious will require doing.

Kombo Beach

Had a cool night so did manage to sleep right through plus very tired after yesterday’s trek. Enjoyed mango for breakfast they do taste different to back home much juicier and we then decided to have a walk along the beach to Kotu Stream. It was a very sunny morning so applied plenty of sun cream and put on our bathers just in case a dip was called for. We cut through the streets which ran alongside the golf course saying many greetings of Salaam Aleikum (peace be upon you) which is the standard greeting to people you meet. We soon arrived at the beach and were picked up by one of the locals who walked with us chatting. The sea was very warm and not too rough so we paddled along the waters edge, Abigail and Bradley were enjoying the competition of who could find the best sea shells, they both found some very large and impressive ones all of which were placed in our pockets to take home. Arrived at Kombo Beach were there were guys on horseback who asked us if we would like a ride we politely turned them down.

The Koto stream outlet came into view and the kids had fun chasing crabs which quickly popped back into their holes at the edge of the stream. We paddled across to the other side of the beach and watched a fishing boat taking its nets out to sea dropping them and then the locals pulling on the two ends slowly bringing it in with their catch. At one point myself and the children were asked to help so we pulled on the rope with Paul busy talking to one of the locals, eventually the net was brought to shore and was a lot of effort for such a small catch. In the net there were a few very small crabs, a lobster some small fish and a couple of larger fish one of which was a bit like an eel. At this point we decided to head back as we had covered some distance in the hot sun.
Koto Stream
Had a dip in the sea near to the lifeguard station, it took us a while to get Bradley in but once in he really enjoyed himself very cooling, we soon had a small crowd of local kids splashing and playing in the surf with us. Arrived back quickly showered to get all the sand off and set about preparing dinner, chicken casserole and mashed potatoes which we all enjoyed. We spent the rest off the afternoon inside as both Paul and me had caught the sun on our shoulders and thought it best to keep the children in doors. John came over for a cup of tea and looked through our DVD collection taking a few to borrow, and then we settled down to watch Madagascar 2 with the kids. Abigail was not feeling too good complaining of ear ache probably due to the cold she has so calpoled her before putting to bed, hopefully she will feel better in the morning.

Locals Fishing







Abuko Nature Reserve

Woken up at 7.00pm by the children urgh could have done with another hour in bed, decided to get up ate breakfast which consisted of banana sandwiches and a cup of tea. Quickly showered and got ready as we have decided to visit Abuko Nature Reserve, phoned Amy as the other volunteers were also looking at going however no answer, so instead of wasting time picked up a taxi to Westfield junction and got on the gelleh bush taxi heading for Brikama. Thirty minutes later we were dropped off at the exit instead of entrance to Abuko Reserve, so had a short walk along the side of the busy road, paid our entrance fee and with mosquito repellent applied and Abigail and Bradley kitted out with their ELC Binoculars we headed into the bush unguided.

The pathway seemed straight forwarded until we were met by a lake of water and had to go off route, ducking under branches and very muddy underfoot in parts, so finding the path further on was a welcome relief. We could hear a variety of birds within the canopy of trees however very hard to spot we did see some tiny red fire finch’s, a bee eater and the ever circling vultures high in the sky, however no photo’s taken as guess what I had forgotten my camera so most annoyed.

Further on a small track veered off the main path so Paul being Paul decided to head that way and again we had to step over small pools of water. One such pool Paul carried both Abigail and Bradley across and on doing so disturbed the water which was ankle deep and I saw something black swimming and realised it was a leech, there was only one thing for it to run so I did very fast, at the other side checking my ankles to make sure I didn’t have a hitchhiker in tow. Veering of track turned out to be a good decision as further on we had our first glimpse of two varieties of monkey a very pretty Western Red Colombos and a smaller grey Patas monkey which all headed for the undergrowth on hearing us coming. We continued on eventually finding the main path and saw a number of large monitor lizards on route sunning them selves in the sunshine.

At the centre of the reserve there was a small shop selling refreshments and some poorly looking caged animals, Baboons, Monkeys, Bushbuck, Giant Tortoise, Pelican, Parrots and Hyenas of which I was surprised at their size easily reaching your groin no wonder they are strong contenders to lions. Carried on and saw a chameleon very well disguised as a green leaf, and more monkeys’ one of which just sat looking back at us and would have been an excellent photo opportunity as very close. After three hours we came to the exit and will definitely be making another visit if only to get some photo’s and visit the crocodile pool which we missed.

Headed back by gelleh gelleh, and decided to have a late lunch of pizza from Mcfadi’s which we all enjoyed saw Angela on route so stopped for a quick chat and picked up some mango’s and vegetables for tomorrows Sunday dinner, arrived home at 3.30pm very tired, hot and sweaty. The four of us washed our feet and legs in the bath and settled down to a relaxing afternoon.

Frustrating Week

This week has been very frustrating thinking of what meals to cook especially when you only have a two ring gas burner and have to try to adapt meals which we can all eat together, hence Abi and Bradley have tried their first prawns, which although they ate them I don’t think they would like to repeat the experience. We have had many trips to the supermarkets as they differ so much in price, jars of sauces i.e. chicken tonight can cost an expensive £2.00 which on a Gambian wage we will not be able to afford. I am sure we will find our best buys on where to shop but it will just take extra time and effort, like having to go to the bakers for bread and butchers for your meat instead of everything in one store like Tesco’s. So we have spent time visiting the market to buy our fruit and vegetables with plenty of variety when in season, up to now we have seen banana’s, carrot’s, mango’s, cabbage, tomatoes, chilli pepper’s, sweet potato, courgette, cucumber, lettuce, yams, and aubergine to name just a few as well as some I have not seen before such as bitter tomato which you boil and eat. Eggs are also sold on the market stalls at 5 dalasi each, usually in a tray of thirty, so we have used these to cook Spanish omelette’s. There is also a very good bakers store where you buy the presidents bread at 5 dalasi (13p) and is very much like a baguette but half the size but fatter, very tasty.

We have just finished our second week of language training and for me it will be my last as next week I will be looking after Abi and Bradley so will be unable to attend (Ye Haa) I don’t think I will miss it as we have both found this week very difficult, and unlike me Paul didn’t get any homework. Alongside the language training we have had various meetings on; Gender Issues, First Aid, Culture, and Child Protection, of which some were very interesting especially the Culture meeting which was presented by two existing volunteers who put across their perception of living in The Gambia and it’s people which was presented in a fun way, with mobile phone being answered under the table all of which is likely to happen in the classroom when Paul will be teaching as well as women teachers turning up with babies strapped to their backs ready to learn. The first aid was presented by a Texan from the Peace Corps, again he was very friendly, and Paul is hoping to get himself hooked up with them on a 14km cross country acclimatisation hike probably towards the end of our stay so his gear doesn’t rot.

The highlight of the week was today when we visited the British High Commission, which was just a trip next door from the VSO Office. On entry we handed in all mobile phones and camera’s which we later found out was due to them being electronic devises which can trigger off bombs. The commissioner was a very down to earth guy who chatted a little about the work of the high commission within The Gambia, and on leaving did announce we would be invited to a reception party for the army unit later on in the year and we had a reputation to withhold as all the previous VSO Volunteers have drank him out of house and home. He then passed us over to his deputy and I suddenly felt as if I was one of the cast from The Office he spoke and acted just like Ricky Gervais very funny guy, he highlighted all the issues we might come across whilst living here and how they were there to help, on finding out we had come as a family even more so was the case.

Paul has spent some time with Ebrima from the VSO Office visiting garages looking to purchase a car to make his journey to Brikama easier and also for us to use on weekends. We have been surprised at the price of cars as we thought we could pick up something relatively cheap, which we have found is not the case, however the car insurance makes up for this as it is a minimal cost. On Friday we did have a brief look at a Renault which was brought into the office by one of the staff who was selling it for his friend, it looked okay so will get a better look on Monday when we have more time and make a decision.

Had to rush back home for 1.00pm as Jenny was due to leave for the airport, surprise surprise the taxi which had been ordered didn’t arrive so Paul had to walk to the end of the street to pick up another. Said our goodbyes to Jenny who will be sadly missed and has been a great support for us all with the household tasks such as washing our clothes however the whites do not come up white, sweeping the floor which is a daily job because of all the sand and dust, boiling and bottling the drinking water and finishing the sewing of the lounge curtains and throws for the chairs. Also keeping the children amused for the last two weeks with trips to the supermarket off which today the children were given sweets by the owner, visits to the beach with buckets and spades in hand and not forgetting the safari garden pool of which Paul and I have joined them after our ICT, I think Jenny will be glad of the rest certainly not a holiday.


Jenny's last night at Francisco's

New Maid

On Monday we were introduced by John to Awo and her 11 month old daughter she is one of the maids used by the volunteers to wash their clothes and tidy around their houses and comes much recommended. After a week of trying to wash the clothes and not managing to get the stains out especially white t shirts we have decided a maid would be a good idea. We managed to come to an arrangement of every Wednesday for 700 dalasi per month plus 50 dalasi for travelling, about £20 per month, which is not a bad wage in Gambian terms.


Awo & Louise


Spent the day at home cutting the curtain fabric, Jenny set about sewing while Paul and I did some food shopping. After visiting four stores as well as the fruit and veg stall at the roadside we had managed to get a few basics. My first attempt at cooking on a two ring gas burner, chicken, onions, carrots and tomatoes stir fried with a chicken seasoning mix accompanied with rice, followed by mango very tasty. Invited John over (the other compound volunteer) for a cup of tea, and spent a couple of hours chatting whilst Abigail and Bradley amused themselves playing football in the compound. Not getting bit as much here by the mosquito’s which is good as I am
finding them very itchy and Paul has counted nineteen just on my back. The call to prayer is much louder as the mosque is quite close; Jenny and I find it funny as it sound like they are calling “HELLO” when really it is “ALLAH”.

Mentoring

After a sleepless night we were up early and met up with our mentor Angela, an Australian VSO Volunteer. We were taken to Serrekunda Market to set up home with the VSO allowance of £80. Very tiring, as to get the most from your money you have to shop around so flitted from shop/stall to stall, managed to get a good price for curtain and throw material after plenty of bartering. Loaded up we headed for home with plates, pans, buckets etc. in hand.

That evening all new volunteers, Jenny, Abigail and Bradley included were invited for dinner at Max’s house. The Pilipino volunteers had each cooked so we tried some new dishes, consisting of squid in a coconut chilli sauce, chicken noodle stir fry, mung beans, marinade chicken drumsticks, prawns and papaya and rice, all concocted on a two ring gas burner very impressive and tasty. At 7.30pm Jenny, myself and the children headed for home leaving Paul to impress with his singing skills on the karaoke machine.

Moving to our Compound

Whilst myself and Paul were learning our languages Jenny dropped off the registration forms for the school and Bradley was fitted out with his school uniform, gold shirt and navy shorts three pairs all to be embroidered with his name, Abigail will have to wait until next week as awaiting more stock.

At 2.30pm we were packed and ready to move to our new accommodation, we said goodbye to the hotel waiters who had taken to Abigail and Bradley and have given them both Gambian names Isatou and Kaba. We loaded up the car and took the short journey to the region know as Fajara which is more of an up market area of the Kombo were you can find diplomats and government officials living. Our first impression is basic with a lovely large compound consisting of the landlady’s house and a small existing volunteer’s house, also with trees of grapefruit, orange, mango, lime, and mandarin. The house has two large bedrooms a large lounge/diner, separate toilet, bathroom and a small kitchen of which it is painted a sickly dark grey colour. The lounge, although large, requires a lick of paint and new curtains, also the throws on the settee could do with a good wash, better still replacing, as they are disgusting. We set to work unpacking the clothes and children’s toys, with plenty of drawer and cupboard space we are very much spoilt for choice. Whilst Jenny and Paul popped out to get some food for breakfast I set to work washing the kitchen walls which were covered with dirt and grease stains, after a long day and the children in bed we managed to relax for the night.
Entrance to our Compound

Lucy our Landlady's House

Lucy's Maid & John's House in Background


Side View of our House


Other Side of our House, Note the tiny Kitchen Area



Compound Area

Lounge & Dinning Room


Kitchen

Two Ring Gas Burner



The Bedrooms

Bathroom

Toilet


The Corridor

View of our Street


Meet the Neighbours


Picked up again and taken to the NGO building to commence our two hour language training. After a lovely buffet lunch myself and James who is an accompanying partner/husband to Kathy walked back to the hotel as the volunteers were to be meeting there employers and other staff from their workplace to discuss programmes etc.

Local Street
After a hot walk back to the hotel and the odd Gambian trying to sell us things, I picked up Jenny, Abi and Bradley and we headed out to visit the Zenith School were we are looking to enrol Abigail and Bradley in September. The staff run a summer school for the week for those children who are behind. We found them to be very welcoming which immediately reassured me, unfortunately Vicky Clarke the Head Mistress was at home working, however, the admin assistant asked one of the security men to take us to her house, and (you wouldn’t expect that in England). We found Vicky to be an approachable no nonsense type of person, and she explained to us the school curriculum they used, which is very much like England which was a positive outcome.

Zenith Private School


School Playground

Dressing Up

Picked up for our ICT and taken to a NGO building to commence our language training. Both Paul and myself split up as Paul will be teaching in Brikama an area where Mandinka is widely spoken and I will be in the Kombos where Olof is used. Started with the basics of greeting people and the formalities around this and what is expected of you. I found the language training very helpful and after three hours we had lunch. The rest of the afternoon I found very tedious and had to struggle to stay awake which wasn’t helped by the heat in the room. Finished off with a visit from a Doctor who talked about the risks within the Gambia i.e. Malaria, this was the longest day so far ending at 5.00pm. Abigail and Bradley had spent the day with Jenny visiting the craft market at the beach, both came home with lovely presents bought by Jenny an African dress which Abi wore that evening to dinner and a drum which Bradley enjoyed practising his jamming on.

Abigail's African Dress

Banjul Capital

Second day of ICT, walked the fifteen minutes to the VSO Office, it was nice to enter the air conditioned building as I already felt hot and sweaty. We were Introduced to our language trainers and commenced the learning of the Gambian alphabet, of which there are thirteen vowel sounds. After two hours and a lot of listening and attempting to say the sounds of each letter we were tasked with writing down ten words and their meaning. The next introduction was that of the police who talked about security within the Gambia, basic common sense and what to be aware of.

With ICT finished we were dropped off at Banjul Market where we were asked to make our own way home. On exiting the car the heavens opened and we ran for shelter within the market, we were soon approached by bumsters who walked with us around the market, some areas we had to step through pools of water, and on smelling the fish section I made an exit for the main street. Once the rain had stopped we decided to head for home, crossing the road to find the best route through the pools of water and roadside drains which were gushing out water and what smelt like sewerage, with bumster in tow we found the correct bus and gave him a small tip of five dalasi. Once home I made a quick dash for the shower and gave my feet and legs a good wash, Not a very enjoyable experience.